Why I'm here.

In 2025, I dive headfirst into a whirlwind of creativity fueled by a grant from the Illinois Arts Council. What will  I be doing with those funds, you ask? I'm just casually making eight complete sets of 1860's undergarments for a local dance troupe! You know, because when you think of arts funding, you picture a crazy fabric lady surrounded by rolls of tulle, right? Let me tell you, crafting a complete set of undergarments is not for the faint of heart. But honestly, the thought of making something beautiful makes me giddy with excitement! I mean, who doesn't want to spend hours creating what essentially amounts to fancy granny panties for dancers? What? Some distant grandmother of yours wore them.

This adventure kicked off last summer when a dancer waltzed up and asked me if I could make her a ballgown. This would be doable in the two months she wanted it, but being a customer, I knew something she did not. I know all about undergarments and how crucial they are in historical garments. She couldn't wear an 1865 ballgown without the proper undergarments! If you know anything about creating a historical garment, you know that the silhouette is everything! It's the difference between a mesmerizing historical dance and looking like a cheap Halloween costume. If you are a costume nerd like me whose favorite activity is watching shows like Gilded Age and gasping over the fabric choices and execution of immaculate historical gowns, jaw-dropped drooling into your popcorn, then you know the difference between seeing an Amazon costume versus seeing a fully executed historical gown. Foundations are everything!  

There are 7 undergarments for a ballgown like this:

1. Draws

2. Chemise 

3  Modesty Petticoat 

4. Corset

5. Corset cover 

6. The Hoop skirt or Cage Crinoline

7. Petticoat

These items work in tandem to support and shape the body and other garments. Each one serves a critical function! 

And then my good ol' imposter syndrome kicked in full throttle. I was stuck between excitement and a nagging voice saying, "But what if you can't do it?" Spoiler alert: I had never made these specific garments except for one pair of draws as a grad school project, but that is the extent! The unique project was close to my heart, as it was for a wonderful woman running a non-profit for the arts in our community. She's pouring her heart and soul into keeping the arts alive while I hoard sewing supplies like squirrels hoard nuts. She's fantastic, and I know the project would cost way more than she would want to pay. But then it hit me like a bolt of glitter: Who wouldn't want an opportunity like this? So, I offered to make the gown and undergarments. She'd pay for the fabric, and I'd get to embark on this magnificent adventure with zero pressure. "No pressure!" I exclaimed, conveniently ignoring that I had a deadline and mountains of research ahead of me. I was off to the races, or rather, the research phase.

Some of my favorite resources.

 Oh, how I missed the joy of learning and creating! I went all-in and felt like a kid again, except instead of finger paints, I was knee-deep in books while binge-watching every costume historian on YouTube! Then, halfway through my undergarment extravaganza, the person I was building them for reached out with a grant opportunity! With her encouragement, I jumped into the world of grant writing—because why not add another layer of complexity to my life? Somehow, I managed to write a grant to fund eight more sets of undergarments, and just as her dress hit the stage, the funds landed in my bank account! Talk about timing! And just as the universe was having a "Let's Make Her Life Awesome" moment, I got asked to present my work at the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum. There I was, basking in the joy, realizing I had documented absolutely nothing. Cue dramatic music I needed a blog, a place to put it all. After building one full set, let me tell you a lot is left out of some of these patterns, and I feel like we need to dish about it! I want a space to talk about these things and share ideas. I used so many other blogs to help me along the way. Why not combine all my findings, link all the helpful resources, and give back to someone looking to make these garments? In return, I hope to hear from some of you and get feedback from my historical sewing community.

I finally found a way to organize my trim and use my old card catalog

Fast forward to now. I have been upgrading my workspace since mid-December. My old workshop looked like a fabric tornado aftermath and was filled to the brim. It was like sewing in a clown car—gowns take up space like they're planning a full-on takeover!  I couldn't imagine my space with eight more sets of garments in it! I had to expand. So that's what I did between Christmas events and the New Year. I threw together a new space and built myself a proper cutting table.  I am now easing into my new room and learning to use the embroidery machine for the first time in preparation for this endeavor. I'm stumbling through design programs like a toddler learning to walk! Not to mention building a website and writing blogs while harnessing my ADHD superpowers for good! Today, as I prepare to publish my blog site, I'm staring at freshly starched laundry drying on the line, ready to be pressed and cut into undergarment magic. 

Oh the possibilities!

Get ready, world! This journey is about to get rolling, and my next post will give you a sneak peek of the garments, complete with photos of my ever-evolving workspace.  Buckle up for a deep dive into the first piece I'll be crafting: the 1865 Elliptical Cage Crinoline from Truly Victorian. I will be sharing my research with you and what I will do differently this time around.

 So, as I embark on this epic adventure of crafting eight sets of 1860s undergarments—what I like to call my "Fancy Granny Panty Extravaganza"— blog. Who wouldn't want to read about the trials and tribulations of making undergarments? From the "Oh no, I sewed the corset to my finger" moments to the "Why is this petticoat trying to eat my sewing machine?" fiascos, there will be plenty of laughter along the way. I'm here to share the reality of fabric madness, epic pattern fails, and the glory of finally mastering corset fittings. Let's dive into the world of historical costuming together, where every stitch is a little victory, and every mishap is just a potential costume horror story. Get ready for some hilarious tales, a sprinkle of sarcasm, and probably a lot of fabric fluff in your inbox! Let's create, laugh, and embrace the chaos of our creative endeavors together.